Belief Bulgari to kick off excessive jewelry season in essentially the most epic means. Held in Venice on the extraordinary Palazzo Ducale, the two-night extravaganza noticed the nice and glamorous flock to the Floating Metropolis to have fun the home’s new Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment. And for over 40 years, one outstanding lady has been accountable for realising the Roman jeweller’s fantastical creations: Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s Jewelry Artistic Director. Contemporary off the home’s magnificent displaying, we sit down with Silvestri to debate the Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment, her favorite items from the gathering and her upcoming adventures.
The theme of this yr’s excessive jewelry assortment is Mediterranea. I needed to ask you in case you have a particular reminiscence you’re keen on that’s linked to the Mediterranean.
I’ve so many recollections concerning the Mediterranean, from Rome to Sicily to Greece, to Africa. It’s a journey, and I cherished this theme from the start, as a result of it’s a journey. And all of the locations that impressed me, I’ve been there many occasions, ranging from Rome and Naples, Palermo, Greece, so it’s very inspiring.
How would you describe the spirit of this excessive jewelry assortment?
It’s a mix of cultures. We’ve quite a lot of international locations across the Mediterranean, and it’s actually a mix of cultures. So for example, and that is an instance of the most effective mixtures [NB: see photo below] — after I began to consider this necklace, I began with mandarin garnets that jogged my memory of the deserts of Morocco, and the flavour and spices of Morocco. I assumed that it may very well be the appropriate mixture — this very sparkly, heat [stone], filled with solar and fiery color — with one thing extra delicate, and on this case, we use citrines.
It’s the primary time that we used mandarin garnets and citrines collectively in excessive jewelry — it’s a brand new mixture. Yearly, we have now a brand new mixture, and this yr, that is certainly one of these new mixtures. The concept could be very a lot Morocco: its desert, dunes and spices. And right here, there may be Venice, with the home windows — the motif is from Venice — so that is actually a mix between two cultures. I like the concept of this mix and the craftsmanship. It’s actually superb. It’s a bit of artwork.
It’s fantastic. You possibly can have a look at it from the entrance and the again.
I find it irresistible, that is my favorite necklace. I began from the gems: I purchased the gems one after the other, after which we minimize them in an ideal means, in a Bulgari means. Now, it’s our masterpiece.
My subsequent query additionally pertains to gems, since you’ve all the time mentioned that gems are all the time the centre of your concepts. What have been a few of your favorite gems to work inside this assortment?
This assortment? It’s very troublesome… I really like this one [NB: see photo below] as a result of it has greater than 200 carats of emeralds and I really like this one specifically as a result of I adopted the slicing of the gem. Firstly, after I noticed the gem, it was not polished, not minimize, and I mentioned with the proprietor of the gem as a result of I noticed a sugarloaf and he was desirous about a faceted stone. So I attempted to persuade them that for Bulgari, one of the best ways to make use of the gem was making it a sugarloaf, and in the long run, I satisfied him that this was one of the best ways, with these very clean corners. It isn’t sharp, it is rather female, very mild, and so we may take into consideration a really mild, elegant necklace. And it’s versatile, so you may put on it with out the emerald or the pearls, or collectively.
Extremely transformable as effectively. What’s your favorite piece in the entire assortment?
It’s troublesome, however I really like this one [NB: See below].
Due to all of the mixtures of the mandarin garnets and all the things?
Sure, as a result of the inspiration was so distinctive.
And what was essentially the most difficult piece to make on this assortment?
Every bit could be very difficult [laughs]. We wish to have a problem from the craftsmanship, from the artistic perspective. The Serpenti could be very difficult, as a result of the craftsmanship evolves yearly, and yearly it will get higher. So, all the things is a problem.
I’m positive you’ve travelled to Venice many occasions. What are a few of your favorite locations to go to in Venice?
The Palazzo Ducale is mostly a shock for me. I’ve seen the Palazzo Ducale many occasions, however yesterday and the day earlier than yesterday, that room [NB: the Sala dello Scrutinio] was superb, so inspiring. That was my first time, so I used to be wanting on the ceiling and I dreamed about new necklaces, new rings and new earrings and an entire assortment in a single night time.
So we’d see a group impressed by Venice sooner or later?
My inspiration comes from travelling. Venice is one place [that inspires me], and, after all, Rome. I can’t neglect that Rome is all the time our first supply of inspiration.
I’m all the time very struck by your very tactile method relating to designing. After I was watching Contained in the Dream final yr, I noticed that you simply picked up the gems, you performed round with it, combined and matched them. I’m very to know, why do you continue to do what you do? Why are you continue to impressed to maintain designing?
As a result of I really like what I do. It’s not likely a job, it’s a ardour — and I really feel that you may really feel the eagerness behind our jewelry. We proceed to do it with an incredible ardour, not solely due to me, however as a result of our crew — and all of the groups round me — are passionate. From artisans, to designers, to the patrons, we do it with pleasure. We benefit from the power of the gems, and we can’t neglect that we’re working with a present from nature. This present makes me blissful, so I’m blissful to work each time. I don’t work, I play.
And for my final query: you journey a lot. So the place are you off to subsequent? What might be your subsequent journey?
My subsequent journey isn’t actually an journey, however I’m visiting Japan due to the excessive jewelry presentation there. I really like Japan.
This text first appeared on Grazia Singapore.
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